2013/07/14-15Rocky Mount Eboshi Ogawa left ridge ga ma · Hikaru ー Suites

2013/07/14-15Ogawayama Eboshiiwa left ridge-Gamaruto [reporter] O field members: O field Issey

In spite of the end of the rainy season declared a week ago, rain front came southward high-pressure system in the Pacific Ocean is weakened for some reason. The trims and up to the 14th and that's no good, 15 days of attack due date, it was thought bivouac as it is regret dripping rain's falling on the night of bivouac and the so first at sight necessarily still if second and subsequent Please assure

14Today the day, and decided to obsess to Eboshiiwa left edge line I you wants to go, I you collect information of trims in the smartphone in the car on the move, you can DL the topology of 100 rock iphone, I unloading To stop the car in the free space somehow, heads to trims by linking cam 1 set equipped with one set each Friends so NP but because of pretension, had arrived on the back Eboshi without knowing Ikansen?

This time could have to trims, top of one party the last is climbing just by one branch also understand immediately.

1P O field lead

Much in the way a little, take a timber protection in the middle timber and cam no problem in particular, a hanger ring bolts defined end point - make the end point in the cam and wood Kiritachi a pitch pine tree under the street without Topo.

 

2P I lead you

With above towards the pine trees, cut the pitch with a double crack front to the upper right and then

3P O field lead

Turn off the pitch at the crack front up to the right hand up the double crack, I clung I feel can be either, like you're somehow flare, a simple double-crack, but a little nervous to decide the cam first.

4P I lead you

Advanced feeling great to be a little nervous and I moved crack 5.5, the face that goes to the ridge line and moves on to face then opening but it leaves the ridge and come to admire also friction of granite, but Ogawayama I you said

5P O field lead

Walk rock band crest of the ridge line, the scenery good a great sense of altitude!

6P I lead you

To extend as much as extensible as well, but the break in the feeling that party before becomes visible from this time, jammed, the forest zone.

7P O field lead

Was the belay at Pinnacle Turn off the pitch in front I think was me was in the 9P eye on an actual topography, party because the previous cushions in front of you and proceed, but the two ring bolt If you look at the top a little

8P (10P) I lead you

Here does not notice that it is left traverse of 10P eye, back once it would be directly above.

9P O field lead

There's plenty of fine rocky staircase come out good photograph, the width of both sides are out, but I do smth. Completely become kneeling position is also strong wind.

 

 

10P I lead you

Party before had accumulated, but there is room to the terrace of the crack front, to float in the air wind is Tanabii the rope strongly down the rock ridge band appearing in front of the crack of advanced plentiful, terrace so large fine

11P 5.7 crack I lead you

Since the crack NP lead it never did, to please to I-kun in crying. It seems enjoyed the hand crack in the I-kun "I'm comfortable ~" barrage, my first crack is somehow ends with Noten. Fairly when it seemed be a pretty interesting view down to the suspended point in ... as it is walking, and come up to this point comes into view until the final pitch, and large traffic jam also look Tohoho, since the final of the chimney is also unloading of Zach time it will take, 15:30 4 party before at this point, but I think down Kana and in bad Kana wide crack before when absorbing it, to be considered in the wide crack front not find anybody.,ja

If you look under ...

12Walk the P rappelling, rain at the time of rappelling waiting

13P O field lead

to climb the right-hand side, where they belay the place the body in completely, to the descent to cross to the other side because it is climbing returns and get off to the right under to rappel again from there.

14P O field lead

The chimney of the final, I What is climbing jamming today for the first time lead, the crack in the order in replacing crying here because it can not lead will probably define me?

 

Last pitch

15P I lead you

I kun also only this long chimney is the first time so, although it was a little anxious was suffering at the top climbs happily and it can be seen that the likely effectiveness cam, there also successfully resolved also happily upper left It went missing to. Like the face from between the chimney well-equipped to pull up ready to look, get pulled Zach in order, and to your turn, false starts in the CS hand jam? In the body a little go up by changing the orientation of the pulling chimney to the internal 2 and 3 in such a place as from there and go to the top of the back and the foot or the right hand is small to the top in the tightness terrace picking up the stance, the left side of the nunchaku exhaustion here gripping break, put the body to the left of the face put a little fired up Once rested. Gabba is the end point and so will be a little nervous not raise the Yukurri and body, apparently the last of the following is not in the way, photography to break immersed in satisfaction and I finished climbing! It was a good practice of NP I did not go to the buttress, for the first time in the granite of the climbing was really fun a friction pat. Painful finger fucked up because just continued to wear for 7 hours Cho and climbing shoes,ja The descent is complete go fast descent to not bother because it was cold beer at juniper point before you obsess! Dinner drinking sunk back to the car while talking with ~U~u Taka Ogawayama most climbing § Aaa Puhha~a's best was over, Nante Nomeru beer in such a short time, to the next day

Umashi beer

 

 

 

 

 

 

15I was talking with a single multi-again if you have time to Gamaruto day or selection.

1P O field lead

I had thought it quite good slab, but again I think that it does may be weak.

2P I lead you

That's unlikely to 5.9 even a glance, but I wonder a thing referred to as so-called grade Ogawayama place?

3P O field lead

Come stand a little last in the comfort of the end face, but I grabbed hold by attaching in stemming so corner.

4P I lead you

Opening is stepped, but painful if you do not go to the left side since they use the left hand flakes since the mid feeling that comes as Tsuru~tsu be smooth As go up, left pocket of the final stage, the core is dispersed weight one finger even be shallow

5P O field lead

It would end to make any move in the walk.

It has become a thing I'm sorry to trouble you I contact work, so might go home suddenly without entering into a bath for that to my cell phone at this time.

There is a rappelling accident when Ogawayama rock roof two peaks in the "Selection" on the 13th at the end, 68-year-old man experienced seems to have passed away.

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