2014/8/1To 4 剱岳 Chin'ne left ridge crests D & Ⅵ face Toyama route

★ Members: K Beauty (L), S water
Schedule: July 31, Saitama night prix Aug. 1 into the mountains, August 4th down

Stroke

A Hitachi Hill Eki 7: 00⇒ Murodo 9:00 ⇒ Do not take more mountain snow Kanazawa 11:00 ⇒ Jian Xi ⇒ ⇒ long Jiro Bear の rock out together at 16:00

Rock 18:00 30⇒ Ikenotani Norikoshi ⇒ bear: 16 head of 9:30 ⇒ Chin'ne rock 6:00 ⇒ Ikenotani Norikoshi ⇒ ⇒ Sannomado Chin'ne Minamiryo mounting bear the 2nd

Rock 17:00 00⇒ bear: 14 head of 10:00 ⇒ Ⅵ 00⇒Ⅵ Peak Peak D face Toyama route Mounting: rock 9 bear the 3rd

00⇒ Tsurugisawa campsite 11:: 00⇒ Murodo 15:30 rock 9 bear the 4th

 

Bustling Murodo or for summer vacation

The pair of early summer vacation, the weather is stable at the end of the rainy seasonIt is believed to be have beenSet at the beginning. It has a vague longingOf distant 剱岳 was"Chin'ne⇒ lowest on the 3rd naThreadSince not go, It faced in production and established a pre-prepared. Although we in trouble or Tateyama or via Ogisawa through until just before,We have decided to go up to the top in Tateyama ⇒ Murodo route from the time of the last bus.

Tickets for first train to Murodo at an extraordinary flights of Tateyama departure 7:00 and without changing to a weekday Friday!

Bieshanchengyue inverted V!

 

But luggage is heavy! The indispensable 50M rope, protection of such a large amount, Hammer borrowed, Harken, and cam, in addition to the daily necessities of three nights (?) Alcoholic beverages! Luggage over 25kg is also!

I will become a walking training load gradually hell!

 

To snowy valley above the bottom KenSawa hut! Equipped with crampons

 

It has been down to Genjiro ridge mounting climbed last year

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shurundo also is easy to walk without snow is tight but ‥

 

The body weight of the luggage, and to work until the last minute the day before, then travel to Tateyama as it is, not only nap in a parking lot, climbing up rocks bear from Chojiro valley Deai is painful pretty! Sandman is likely to have hit it and stop at the small pause!

Salvation beautiful scenery that was away from Japan!

 

Superb view of eight peaks Ⅵ Peak! A from the front right, B, C, D Peak

 

Arrival to the shelf of rock bear which serves as a base camp finally. Space Harrell tent or about 5-6 places snow is imminent until the immediate vicinity.

Schedule of going to bed is full ‥ catapult prematurely in four Zhang installed upon arrival, placed to secure a place somehow, there is also tired

Long first day was followed from the previous day is finished.

 

This peak, which is illuminated in the morning sun

 

2 Head

Overslept Both people what or tired from the previous day! Plan to get up at 3 in fairly bright 4:30 already!

Even positive thinking lighter is safe to use, starting at 6:00 to get ready in a hurry a little

I wind the Shurundo!

 

 

Chojiro Migi俣 ⇒ Ikenotani Norikoshi is is ShurundoI climb a steep snow patches that open mouth many!Return is likely to fear it is the slope of the pretty!

Take me down to the rock wall of the right to avoid Shurundo in some places. It is down on the ground with 2 ~ 3m due to its proximity to the slopes.

Shurundo horrible when viewed from a distance, but is tight except when viewed approaching, I did not feel fear falling.

 

Rockfall attention! Col front is Sannomado

 

Steep slope of scree comes out snow is gone totally exceeds Ikenotani Norikoshi.

 

 

 

 

Chin'ne is seen in the steeple of the left. Where it is off to the V-shaped is where there is the fulcrum of the rappelling down to the galley Ikenotani.

 

 

And Chin'ne came into view on the right side at last! Come up tension!

 

 

 

 

Skyline of the front left ridge Lou

 

Techno Chuang three ni to the

I look preceding the party because they include Zhang the ridge.

Traverse the steep slopes of snow patches until Toritsuki!

 

The ~ wonder if you slip down

 

To Chin'ne Toritsuki finally!

 

 

 

 

The obsess to descend from the snow. Fulcrum Dondo Harken Carved!

 

 

you start climbing Be ready early because of the time are also pushing!

Because you are carrying ice ax and crampons all, such as climbing shoes, climbing start of shouldering the weight of Zach quite!

 

Under visible on the front steeple hang Yue 9P of heart!
Knife edge persists beyond. The Na ~ still far

 

 

It takes time because there is also to say that for the first time for both of them, to find a fulcrum to turn off the pitch and route finding!

‥ Kumoyuki also become increasingly doubtful

 

 

 

In addition to the gas began to fall until the rain! ! Left of the shadow Cleopatra needle

 

 

Gas where it comes to knife edge seems Chin'ne beyond the core at last!

Rain had been falling. And feel the weather becomes unstable in the afternoon mountain again!

 

 

Lower's the weather is good, but ‥

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is hard to understand in the photo, but did not stand on a rock and scared because it is wet(^_^;)

 

I arrived at the head finally!

Shimoyama start early lightning has become in the distance.

 

 

 

Rappelling in to Ikenotani galley!

 

 

And exits to the col and go down the footprint of the bush from the head. Suspended fulcrum to Ikenotani galley is found to go to the right.

We arrived in the middle Ikenotani galley with three times rappelling. Arrival evening to rock the bear return the way you came. The 1st long-hoo is finished!

 

There in front of the middle front (! Or natural) is C face, Ⅵ peak aims to D face of the left today!

 

The 3rd goal

Climb the peak Ⅵ D face Toyama route eight peaks, and plans that Shimoyama, if possible today

But the duo drinker you overslept's can not get up early today, starting it has already become the same as the 9:00 time attendance of company(+_ )

 

 

We want to go to the back of the Runze, and down from the snow to avoid Shurundo the rock wall, we will walk the clearance of snow and the wall!

 

You arrive at the base as long as 10 minutes Mononoke is D face, but Shurundo the front does not go in straight Runze deeply. You head to the mounting through the wall between the downlink and snow on the wall from the left for that.

 

 

1P Head
Walls are standing quite(^_^;)

 

Climbing finally started!

Cloud is the lot from this morning, but the rain is not falling. Start with my lead while desire to want to have somehow!

 

It is comfortable and leave the ridge! Back rocks bear

 

 

 

When the lead, you can happen to just above the wrong place to go to the left the band, fulcrum and not found, time It took the route finding than I thought I at 3 Pitch eyes around.

D at the face of the head. The Chin'ne in the back, which climbed yesterday!

 

 

 

Time it took, but I arrived at the head of the successful D face, Chin'ne climbed yesterday can be seen in the back of the Hachi-honoatama!

For descent in rappelling, has taken time than I thought suspended fulcrum obscure then, it became possible to spend in rock overnight bear anymore.

Toyama prefectural police helicopter to hover in order to raise the required rescuers at just below the rock of bear

 

 

But the police helicopter was flying resound with the roar on a daily basis.

 

剱沢 campsite on the last day. Whether the weather is worse, the party that folded the tent there were many

 

 

The 4th goal

Sleeping in the morning at the End three consecutive days exhausted Seikon anymore! This time has become the standard of our time anymore? !

And the weather rain! (^_^;)

But it was lucky Given that the day before yesterday, it is caught in yesterday? Positive thinking is working again, and folding the tent among the rain somehow, I walked up to Murodo slowly over a period of more than Kosutaimu, we returned home safe and sound.

 

‥ to look back on this time of climbing

  • Very happy to canto climbing two with the goal blessed with the weather!
  • Yes my experience, skill and also, since it takes time to Rufai, root for the first time is difficult in the standard time that it has been described, for example, this. I thought I need to clear a little more time
  • Early to bed and early to rise is basic in the mountains again!
  • Luggage is light as much as possible! And good for climbing climbing shoes are lighter, especially
  • Liquor ‥ in moderation
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